tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15320699.post4556602444816704501..comments2023-09-17T07:40:42.232+00:00Comments on Philsville: Update.....Phillyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03053965967319875654noreply@blogger.comBlogger3125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15320699.post-25014094864398539652008-01-22T15:13:00.000+00:002008-01-22T15:13:00.000+00:00Hi Phil. Totally agree with your assessment on the...Hi Phil. <BR/>Totally agree with your assessment on the location of a planes fulcrum. If additional weight were to be applied, then it would have to be attached to the heel end.<BR/><BR/>I assume you have seen the completed photo's for the 27" jointer. My appetite for overly long handplanes is well and truelly appeased. "No more" <BR/><BR/>My next project will be to take 4 smoothing planes through each stage of fabrication. This should be more time efficient.<BR/><BR/>You may be pleased to know I am venturing away from the laminated bodied planes, and going in your direction, single piece body.<BR/><BR/>I have made up a jig already for the pedestal drill, which will allow me to drill out the mortised area via forstner bit. I am changing from the 45 degree pitched bed,to 48.5 (york). <BR/>The jig is set up to hold the pre morticed body at 48.5, and 60 degrees, for the opposing.<BR/><BR/>I have a 2.7 length of 80 x 80mm Australian Rosewood to use for the main body, and have plenty of Tassie Huon Pine, for the ancilliary bits.<BR/>Might even go for a dutch banana grip at the front, this time round. <BR/><BR/>I am quite happy to stay with the <BR/>brass plated sole, and the brass adjusters are working really well.<BR/><BR/>Have just purchased some riffler files, and considering my mortise cavity is fairly straight forward, these should be ok for removing that last 1/8 of material left after drilling.<BR/><BR/>By the way, I was very impressed with your recent work "black beauty". Fabricate a few more of those, and you'll be able to afford a lacky to take care of all that boring work, you dislike doing. <BR/><BR/>All the best. StewieAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15320699.post-41377450647451321262008-01-21T07:30:00.000+00:002008-01-21T07:30:00.000+00:00HI StewieGood question! To me, the centre point wo...HI Stewie<BR/>Good question! To me, the centre point would be just in front of the rear tote - when you hold the plane with one hand it should be pretty evenly balanced with a slight forward bias.<BR/>Hope this helps and look forward to seeing your next plane.<BR/>PhilPhillyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03053965967319875654noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15320699.post-27540126925103222542008-01-20T13:08:00.000+00:002008-01-20T13:08:00.000+00:00Hi Phil. Question for you. I am considering experi...Hi Phil. <BR/><BR/>Question for you. I am considering experimenting with additional weighting to some of my future wooden hand planes.<BR/><BR/>In theory, this would be done by boring a forstner hole into pre-determined areas of the sole, and then adding same sized lead plugs.<BR/> <BR/>A fitted brass sole would later hide these additions.<BR/><BR/>I have heard the term, a perfectly balanced plane.<BR/><BR/>In your opinion, where along the planes length, would the fulcrum point be located to achieve this.<BR/> <BR/>Would it be the centre point of the planes total length, or could it be at the soles, mouth opening. <BR/><BR/>Regards, Stewie Simpson.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com